How to Build a Home Theater Console Table
We recently had our basement home theater remodeled. We are loving this space for watching movies and hanging out, but wanted some extra seating behind the chairs and add some interest between the bar and theater. I built a simple console table to put behind our theater chairs. The table helps complete the room and provides more seating at a bar height with good view of the screen and easy access to the bar area. It was a low cost build with 2x4 and 2x10 material and could use a variety of simple ways to join the components together. The table height is 43" and I used 29" barstools. Here's how I built the console table.
Tools
These are the tools I used, but you could use a circular saw or simplify some of the joinery. Always use eye, hearing and other protection as needed when using power tools.
Miter Saw
Dowel Jig (if necessary)
Router
Materials
Look for boards with as little bow, twist, and imperfections as possible.
Qty 6: 2x4 x 10'
Qty 2: 2x10 x 10'
Pocket Screws (2" and 2 1/2")
Wood Glue
Wood Screws
Dowels (if necessary)
Cut List
Tabletop: 2x10 Qty 2 at 112" length (or a bit longer to cut down after assembly)
Legs: 2x4 Qty 4 at 41.5" length
Leg Brace: 2x4 Qty 4 at 9.5" length
Cross Brace: 2x4 Qty 3 at 107" length
Backstop: 2x4 ripped to 1.5" x 1.5" with half square and half rounded edges Qty 1 at 112" length (or leave a bit longer to ensure it matches the Tabletop length)
Backstop Sides: 2x4 ripped to 1.5 x 1.5" with half square and half rounded edges Qty 2 at 6.5" length
Leg Stile: 2x4 ripped to 1.5" x 1.5" with all square edges Qty 4 at 30.25" length
Cutting the Tabletop, Legs, Leg Braces, and Cross Braces is straightforward. Just cut the material to length. Make sure you have good clean edges, especially on the Tabletop components because the edges are visible. Where I had cracks, I carefully applied wood glue and clamped it to minimize the crack and reduce likelihood it would open back up.
For the Backstop, cut a 2x4 to length, then set your table saw to 1.5” and rip it so you have one side with squared off corners to go on the tabletop and the normal 2x4 radius corners on the top. Miter the corners to 45 degrees as shown in the drawings to match up with the Backstop Sides.
To cut the Backstop Sides, follow the same technique as above. Then miter the corners to 45 degrees to match up with the Backstop. Optionally, I used a router to radius the top corner facing the seated position.
Assembly
Leg Assembly
As shown in the video, I used dowels to join the leg braces to the legs. I did this for 2 reasons. I haven’t used dowel joinery much so this was a good opportunity, and it wouldn’t leave any exposed screws. Pocket hole screws (coarse thread) and regular pre-drilled and screws joints would also work. Although you will either have exposed screw heads or would need to plug them. I would recommend using wood glue with all the joints to keep it more durable. This would also be the time to install the leg stiles. I decided to add them after already completing the rest of the leg assembly to add more interest to the side of the table so I used a blind hole per the video and used regular wood screws and glue. Place a 2x4 scrap between the stile and the leg as a temporary spacing block if necessary. Repeat the processes for the other leg assembly.
Cross Brace Assembly
There are 3 cross braces. 2 are on top and 1 is near the bottom at the back. To assembly the cross braces, I used glue and pocket hole screws. Since this is in softwood, use coarse thread pocket hole screws. Use 2 pocket holes per joint and place them in the least visible location. For the top cross braces, that is towards the middle of the table. For the bottom, it depends on your preference. Could be facing forward or towards the person seated. I found with the stain color and location that I have they weren’t very easy to see, so didn’t bother plugging them. Note that before assembling the cross braces to the legs, it can be a convenient time to put the pocket holes (or other methods) on the upper cross braces that you will use later to attach the tabletop. So consider that before assembly of the cross braces.
Tabletop Assembly
Pocket holes and glue were used to join the 2x10 pieces together. I placed pocket holes about 18-24” apart and alternated the direction of it between the 2 boards. Then apply glue to the common edge and drive the pocket screws. I used 2 ½” screws on this joint. Then use some clamps to minimize the gap and clamp to a flat surface. If you left the tabletops pieces cut long, you can cut them to the right length now with a circular saw to ensure the edges are lined up evenly.
Backstop Assembly
Apply glue and place the backstop on the tabletop holding it securely with clamps. I flipped the tabletop over and drilled pilot holes, then installed wood screws (2” or 2 ½”) every 18” or so. Then do the same process with the backstop side pieces including glue at the mitered joints.
Prep for installing the Tabletop
If you haven’t already, you should add the pocket holes or grooves for table top fasteners. I just used pocket holes, but the table top fasteners would allow the top to move and shift with changes in temperature and humidity. I used 2 pocket holes on the top of each leg assembly and spaced them out every few feet along the front and back top braces as well. I would recommend waiting to install the tabletop on the base until after the finish is applied to make it easier to handle and move into it’s final position.
Sanding and Finishing
Now the entire base assembly and tabletop needs to be sanded. I progressed through 3 grits during sanding. 100 grit to start, then 180, and finally 220. I mainly used a orbital sander, but sanded by hand in some tight spots. Then you can move on to the paint or finish. I will briefly describe the process I followed for the finish. I used Minwax products which included a Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner since the pine material can absorb stain inconsistently resulting in blotchy stain appearance. Then I used Red Mahogany stain and applied with a shop rag. For the protective finish, I applied a water-based polyurethane with my Wagner sprayer. The water-based material is easier to clean up. I sanded very lightly between coats to get a smooth finish with 300 or higher grit. I applied about 3 thin coats.
Finally, I brought the base and tabletop to its final spot. It is a long table and was easier to manage down the stairs as separate pieces. Then I drove the final screws (2" pocket screws) to hold the tabletop to the base which is centered on the base.
Let me know how the build went for you!
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